Score every company on the same 10 things, not the sales pitch (updated for 2026)
To compare solar installers, get at least three itemized quotes, then judge each company on the same objective checks: state licensing, NABCEP certification, insurance and bonding, warranties, equipment, price per watt, and contract terms. The best pick is the one that scores well across all of them, not the loudest pitch.
- Get three or more quotes. The U.S. Department of Energy advises comparing multiple bids because “different installers are likely to have different rates for the same job” (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026).
- Confirm licensing plus NABCEP certification. NABCEP’s PV Installation Professional credential is the industry’s leading voluntary certification and is separate from a required state contractor or electrical license (NABCEP, as of 2026).
- Expect three warranties. A strong offer includes a workmanship warranty (often 5 to 10 years), a product warranty (most commonly 25 years today), and a 25-year performance warranty (EnergySage, as of 2025).
- Compare on price per watt. Convert each quote to cost per watt so different system sizes line up (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026).
- Ignore fake tax-credit urgency. The 30% federal residential credit (Section 25D) ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, so “sign today to lock in the credit” is a red flag, not a reason (IRS, as of 2026).
How do you compare solar installers? Get three quotes, then score them the same way
The reliable way to compare solar installers is to gather at least three quotes and hold every company to the same checklist. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends getting multiple bids and comparing them, because rates for the same job vary widely between companies (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026). Google’s own AI Overview for this question reaches the same conclusion: obtain at least three quotes and evaluate them on equipment quality, warranties, and whether the work is done in-house or subcontracted. Three quotes gives you a real price range and lets you see which company is genuinely competitive versus which is banking on you not shopping around.
Once you have the quotes, judgment beats gut feel. A polished salesperson and a low headline price tell you almost nothing on their own. What matters is how each company scores on the objective, verifiable checks below: is the license real, is the crew certified and insured, are the warranties in writing, is the equipment reputable, and does the contract protect you. This page gives you a scorecard you can print and use on any company that quotes you, plus how to read the two things that trip up most homeowners, warranties and price per watt. For the broader picture of whether your home is a good candidate first, see our solar basics hub and our guide to the 7 signs your home is a good fit for solar.
Which credentials actually matter: licensing, NABCEP, and insurance
Start with the credentials that are verifiable, because those are the ones that protect you. The Department of Energy tells homeowners to look for installers who are “licensed, bonded, and insured” and hold certifications from a body like the North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners, and who have at least three years of experience (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026). Each of those is a fact you can confirm, not a claim you have to trust.
Licensing is the legal floor. Most states require a general contractor or a specialty electrical license to install a grid-tied solar system, and the license is issued and searchable through your state licensing board. A company that cannot give you its license number, or whose number does not check out, is an immediate stop.
NABCEP certification is the professional standard on top of the license. NABCEP is the leading North American certification body for solar professionals, and its PV Installation Professional (PVIP) credential is a voluntary certification that validates an installer’s competency. It is not the same as a state license, and it is not a warranty (NABCEP, as of 2026). You can confirm a professional actually holds the credential through NABCEP’s Board Certified Directory rather than taking a logo on a website at face value.
Insurance and bonding are what stand between you and a mistake on your roof. General liability insurance and workers’ compensation mean that if a panel is dropped through your roof or a crew member is hurt, the cost does not land on your homeowners policy. Ask for a certificate of insurance in writing, and clarify who is responsible for any roof damage or leaks before you sign, which the DOE flags as one of the first things to settle (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026).
You can verify most of this in three quick lookups before you ever sign:
- Search your state licensing board for the contractor or electrical license number the company gave you, and confirm it is active.
- Check the installer’s certification in NABCEP’s Board Certified Directory rather than trusting a logo on the website (NABCEP, as of 2026).
- Read the company’s history on Google Reviews and the Better Business Bureau for a pattern of complaints and, more tellingly, how they were resolved.
For a ready-made list of questions you can take into the sales meeting, see the right questions to ask a solar installer.
See what solar programs are available in your ZIP code
Solar incentives, net-metering credits, installer availability, and electric rates change by utility and location. Enter your ZIP and we’ll match you with licensed installers who serve your area.
Free to check. About a minute. No credit pull to check.
Submitted securely and used to match you with licensed installers in your area. Some homeowners may qualify for $0-up-front lease/PPA options where available.
The SolarFY installer scorecard: score any company on 10 things
This is the checklist we built so you can score any installer the same way, side by side. Run each quote through the ten rows below. A company does not have to be perfect, but the more red-flag cells it lands in, the more risk you are taking on a 25-year decision. Print it, take it to each meeting, and let the pattern, not the pitch, decide.

| What to check | Why it matters | What a strong answer looks like | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| State license | The legal requirement to install and wire a grid-tied system in your state | A current contractor or electrical license number you can verify with the state board | Cannot produce a number, or the number does not check out |
| NABCEP certification | The leading voluntary professional credential for PV installers | A named, directory-verifiable PV Installation Professional on the team | A NABCEP logo with no verifiable certificant behind it |
| Insurance and bonding | Covers roof damage, accidents, and a crew injury so the cost is not yours | A written certificate of general liability plus workers’ compensation | Vague verbal assurance, or “we are covered, do not worry” |
| Experience and track record | Complex roof, permit, and interconnection work rewards a seasoned crew | Three or more years and a count of completed local systems | Brand-new entity, no local installs, or no references offered |
| In-house vs subcontracted crews | Determines who is accountable if the workmanship fails later | A clear answer on who installs and who honors the labor warranty | Evasive about subcontractors or who to call for a warranty claim |
| Equipment quality | Panel and inverter reliability drives 25 years of output | Named panel and inverter models with published spec sheets | Refuses to name brands, or swaps in “equivalent” gear later |
| Warranties in writing | Workmanship, product, and performance coverage protect your investment | All three warranties, with terms and who honors each, on paper | Warranties described only verbally, or bundled and vague |
| Written production estimate | Sets the savings expectation you are actually buying | A modeled annual kWh estimate with the assumptions shown | A guaranteed “bill goes to zero” with no modeling behind it |
| Price per watt | The only apples-to-apples way to compare quotes of different sizes | An itemized quote you can convert to a clear cost per watt | One lump sum, hidden fees, or a price that changes under pressure |
| References and public reviews | Past customers reveal how a company behaves after the sale | Real references plus a checkable Google and BBB history | No references, or a pattern of unresolved complaints |
SolarFY scorecard, compiled from U.S. Department of Energy and NABCEP guidance (as of 2026). Use it as a screening tool, not a substitute for reading your own contract.
How to read a solar warranty: workmanship vs product vs performance
Warranties are where a weak installer hides, so it pays to know the three you should see. A residential solar system usually carries three separate warranties, and they often come from two different parties: the installer stands behind the labor, and the manufacturer stands behind the hardware and its output (EnergySage, as of 2025). If a company only talks about one of them, that is your cue to ask about the other two in writing.
| Warranty | Who issues it | Typical term | What it covers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Workmanship (installation) | The installer | About 5 to 10 years, sometimes longer | Labor, mounting, roof penetrations, and wiring done during the install |
| Product (equipment) | The panel or hardware manufacturer | Most commonly 25 years today; some premium panels 30+, older or budget panels 10 to 12 | Manufacturing and materials defects in the panels or equipment |
| Performance (production) | The panel manufacturer | About 25 years | A guaranteed minimum output, often around 80% or more of rated power at year 25 |
Typical U.S. residential terms as of 2025 to 2026; exact coverage varies by installer and panel brand, so read each certificate. Source: EnergySage.
The catch most homeowners miss is who is still around to honor the claim. A 25-year performance warranty is only as good as the manufacturer that backs it, and a workmanship warranty is only as good as the installer that stays in business. That is exactly why the licensing, insurance, and track-record rows on the scorecard matter, and why a very new company promising a very long labor warranty deserves extra questions.
How to compare quotes apples to apples with cost per watt
Price per watt is the single number that makes different quotes comparable. Because installers propose different system sizes, comparing sticker prices is misleading. The Department of Energy’s fix is to convert each quote to cost per watt: divide the total system cost by the system size in watts, which is the size in kilowatts multiplied by 1,000 (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026). A $24,000 quote for an 8 kW system works out to $3.00 per watt, and now it lines up directly against a differently sized bid.
| Example quote | System size | Total price | Cost per watt |
|---|---|---|---|
| Quote A | 6 kW | $19,800 | $3.30 per watt |
| Quote B | 8 kW | $24,000 | $3.00 per watt |
| Quote C | 10 kW | $28,000 | $2.80 per watt |
Illustrative example only, not a quote or a savings estimate. It shows why the math matters: Quote A has the lowest sticker price but the highest cost per watt, while Quote C, the highest sticker price, is actually the best value per watt. Always confirm the quotes cover the same equipment tier and warranties before you judge on price per watt.
Cost per watt also exposes the quotes that are hiding something. If one bid is far below the others per watt, ask what is missing: a lower panel tier, no inverter monitoring, a shorter warranty, or fees that appear later. If one is far above, ask what you are paying extra for. A fair quote is itemized enough that you can see the panels, inverter, labor, permitting, and any adders, and a company that will not itemize is telling you something. For the money side of the decision, see whether the questions to ask before going solar line up with what each installer volunteers.
Red flags: how to spot a solar installer to avoid
Most bad outcomes share a few warning signs, and they show up during the sale. High-pressure tactics, prices that change if you do not sign today, and refusals to put things in writing are the pattern behind most complaints about solar (SolarReviews, as of 2026). None of them are about the technology. They are about a company that does not want you to compare.
Note: the fake tax-credit deadline. A common pressure tactic in 2026 is “sign now to lock in the 30% federal tax credit before it disappears.” The federal residential credit (Section 25D) already ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, so a homeowner buying in 2026 cannot claim it, and any installer using it to rush you is either out of date or misleading you (IRS, as of 2026). MySolarFY does not provide tax advice; consult a tax professional about your own situation.
Watch for these during any quote: a salesperson who will not leave a written, itemized quote; a “today only” price; a guarantee that your electric bill will hit zero with no production modeling; a demand for a large deposit before permits; pressure to sign a long lease or power purchase agreement you have not read; and a company that dodges questions about its license, insurance, or who honors the warranty. Any single one is a reason to slow down. Two or more, and it is usually a reason to walk. Being able to check your options without a salesperson in the room is the whole point of comparing first, which is how MySolarFY works.
National vs local solar companies: how to weigh them
There is no automatic winner between a national brand and a local installer; there are trade-offs. National companies often have deep financing menus, standardized processes, and long corporate warranties, but the crew on your roof may be a subcontractor, and support can be less personal. Local installers often know your permitting office, your utility’s interconnection quirks, and your roof types firsthand, and you may deal with the same people start to finish, though a small company’s warranty is only as durable as the business. The honest answer is that it depends on the specific company, which is exactly why you run both through the same scorecard rather than assuming size equals quality. For a deeper side-by-side on the two models, read our guide to national vs local solar companies.
Frequently asked questions
How many quotes should I get before choosing a solar installer? Aim for at least three. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends comparing multiple bids because different installers charge different rates for the same job, and Google’s AI Overview for this question lands on the same three-quote minimum (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026). Three quotes gives you a genuine price range and reveals which company is competitive on price per watt versus which is counting on you not to shop. Convert each quote to cost per watt so the systems compare fairly, and make sure each bid is itemized enough to see the panels, inverter, labor, and any fees.
Is there a single best solar installer, or should I compare on criteria? Compare on criteria. There is no universal best solar installer for every home, and the honest way to compare is to score each company against the same objective criteria: verifiable licensing, NABCEP certification, insurance, warranties, equipment, price per watt, and contract terms. Any company or list crowning one definitive top installer is marketing, so weigh the criteria instead. Score your actual quotes on those checks and the strongest fit for your roof and budget emerges from the evidence. That is why this page gives you a scorecard rather than a ranking of brand names.
Does NABCEP certification really matter? It is a strong positive signal, though it is not a legal requirement. NABCEP is the leading North American certification body for solar professionals, and its PV Installation Professional credential is a voluntary certification that validates competency; it is separate from the state contractor or electrical license your installer must legally hold (NABCEP, as of 2026). Treat a verifiable NABCEP-certified installer as a plus, confirm it through NABCEP’s Board Certified Directory rather than trusting a logo, and never let it substitute for checking the actual state license and insurance.
How do I check whether a solar company is legitimate? Verify three things you can look up independently. Confirm the state contractor or electrical license number with your state licensing board, ask for a written certificate of general liability insurance and workers’ compensation, and check the company’s history on Google Reviews and the Better Business Bureau for a pattern of complaints and how they were resolved (U.S. Department of Energy, as of 2026). A legitimate installer answers all three without hesitation and puts them in writing. Evasiveness on any of them is a reason to move on.
What warranties should a good solar installer offer? You should see three. A workmanship or installation warranty from the installer, commonly around 5 to 10 years, covers the labor and roof work. A product warranty from the manufacturer, most commonly 25 years today, covers hardware defects. A performance warranty, typically about 25 years, guarantees a minimum output over time (EnergySage, as of 2025). Get all three in writing, note who honors each, and remember a long warranty only helps if the installer and manufacturer are still around to honor it.
Should I choose a national or a local solar installer? Neither is automatically better; it depends on the specific company. National brands often bring more financing options and standardized warranties but may subcontract the install, while local installers often know your permitting and utility firsthand and keep the same team on your project, though a small firm’s warranty depends on the firm surviving. Run both through the same objective checklist, licensing, certification, insurance, warranties, equipment, and price per watt, rather than assuming that size or locality alone decides quality.
What are the biggest red flags when comparing solar installers? High-pressure sales are the top one: a “today only” price, a refusal to leave a written itemized quote, or a demand for a large deposit before permits. A guarantee that your bill will hit zero with no production modeling, and pressure to sign a lease or PPA you have not read, are two more (SolarReviews, as of 2026). One specific 2026 tell is any installer urging you to sign fast to claim the 30% federal tax credit, which ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025 (IRS, as of 2026).
Reviewed by the SolarFY Editor. The licensing, certification, warranty, and price-per-watt guidance on this page was verified against U.S. Department of Energy, NABCEP, IRS, and EnergySage sources as of 2026; certification directories, warranty terms, and state licensing rules can change, so confirm current details with your state licensing board, NABCEP, and each installer before you sign. Learn more about our data and methodology.
MySolarFY is a free service that matches homeowners with licensed solar installers. We are not an installer, financing company, tax advisor, or government program. This page is neutral educational guidance and does not rank or recommend any specific installer. “No up-front cost” refers to qualifying lease or PPA financing, where eligible homeowners may have no out-of-pocket cost at installation; lease and PPA terms typically run 20 to 25 years, may include an annual escalator, and total payments may exceed the cost of a cash purchase. Solar panels are not free and monthly payments apply. The federal residential tax credit (Section 25D) ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, and most 2026 homeowner-buyers cannot claim it. MySolarFY does not provide tax or financial advice; consult a licensed professional. Eligibility, savings, and warranties vary and are not guaranteed. See our full disclaimer.





